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Rocky Mountains

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“Everybody loves the sound of a train in the distance
Everybody thinks it’s true”

Paul Simon

To mention crossing the Rocky Mountains by train to most travellers is probably to conjure up thoughts of the iconic ‘Rocky Mountaineer’. For those not in the know the ‘Mountaineer’ is a luxury long distance tourist train which traverses Canada from Toronto to Vancouver; broadly in the same category as the Orient Express in Europe.

Now, for my money (of which there is clearly an insufficiency!) there are two main drawbacks to the ‘Mountaineer’:

  1. it is eye-wateringly expensive
  2. on the trip across the Rockies you don’t get to sleep on the train. Passengers are shipped off to a hotel in Kamloops to re-join the next morning. Excuse me! Sleeping on the train – in motion – really is the point (for this enthusiast at least)

We travelled instead from Jasper to Vancouver on the regular ViaRail service which operates under the banner of The Canadian. Not quite as iconic perhaps, but pretty close. If you are stirred by the images of the classic stainless steel train sets that make up The Canadian you might care to check out the history and detail of the trains here.

Having boarded at the top of the morning in Jasper we spent much of the daylight part of the 24 hour journey in one of the classic domed panorama cars – the which could have been (and probably were!) designed specifically for the sweeping, dramatic landscapes of the Rockies. Then – whilst we dined in some opulence in one of the splendid restaurant cars – our day cubicle was converted into the curtained bunk berths in which we passed the hours of darkness; though not before retiring to the gorgeous curved observation car (see below) for a digestif.

Photo by Andy Dawson ReidPhoto by Andy Dawson ReidPhoto by Andy Dawson ReidPhoto by Andy Dawson Reid
Come the next morning we awoke to find ourselves rolling gently into Vancouver.

Photo by Andy Dawson ReidPhoto by Andy Dawson ReidWell – that’s another item crossed off the bucket-list!

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“There’s something about the sound of a train that’s very romantic and nostalgic and hopeful”

Paul Simon

It occurs to me that in the course of these extensive prolixities I must at some point have explained that – during my adolescent years – my family was really quite different to many (if not most) others such. That we did not have a television during the period (the 60s) that that infernal device was the be-all and end-all of many folks entertainment (and indeed, education) is simply down to my father’s notions as to what was (and what was not) good for our minds. That we did not have a car was more prosaic, ruled out by my father’s weak eye musculature (the which resulted from a childhood illness). The thought of my mother in charge of a motor vehicle scares me even now – and it is no surprise that the very notion scared her too.

I do know for sure that I have previously recounted tales of my father’s strong pride in his Scottish ancestry and his desire – just as soon as we young ones were old enough to travel – to visit the land of our forefathers. Such was the draw of the highlands that, for the best part of the next decade, we holidayed nowhere else.

Not driving (and certainly not flying, back in those inceptive days) meant travelling by train. It is a truism that rail travel was somehow more elegant back then. The place settings in the dining cars were of porcelain, damask and silver plate; we slept in bunk beds in twin-berth sleeper compartments, waking in time to see ourselves safely across the border and into our native land.

Further, back in 2016 I wrote the following in a post entitled, “Steam“:

“In a way my first introduction to Canada came through the railway magazines that my father collected from his early life right up until he passed away. I gazed in awe at the black and white photographs of enormous North American steam engines hauling trains of apparently endless length through the staggering Rocky Mountains. I recall also being astonished that there could be a place on this earth called ‘Hope’ – and when it came to spiral tunnels and avalanche sheds… my eyes bulged and my jaw dropped in disbelief! Could I ever hope(!) to see such wonders?”

All this, of course, by way of a fanfare for perhaps the most anticipated part of our recent sojourn in the Rocky Mountains; our train journey from Jasper to Vancouver.

Here be pictures. Enjoy!

This is the Canadian National station at Jasper:

Photo by Andy Dawson ReidPhoto by Andy Dawson ReidPhoto by Andy Dawson ReidPhoto by Andy Dawson Reid
These sights may be seen from the train:  Mount Robson – the highest peak in the Rockies

Photo by Andy Dawson Reid
Pyramid Creek Falls – in the Pyramid Creek Falls Provincial Park

Photo by Andy Dawson ReidA brief break in Blue River to stretch our legs:

Photo by Andy Dawson Reid

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Whenever I inform folks – here in Canada and elsewhere – that The Girl and I spent a couple of nights in Jasper, their first instinct is to enquire about the residual damage from the 2024 wildfire. For those readers who know nothing of this dramatic event this brief detail comes from the Jasper Travel website:

“In July 2024, Jasper, experienced a historic wildfire, the largest in the past century, affecting over 32,000 hectares and causing significant damage to homes and businesses.

Despite the adversity, the town’s spirit remained strong, and recovery efforts have been swift and collaborative. While some areas were affected, much of the park’s breathtaking landscapes remain untouched, and the resilience of our community shines as we rebuild and welcome visitors back to our beloved destination.

Jasper continues to be a place of awe-inspiring wilderness, and we invite travellers to experience the beauty, adventure, and warmth that define our town as we move forward together”.

It is true that should one look closely one can plainly make out evidence of just how close the fires came to the centre of the town; in some cases into it. There is also no avoiding the sight of the temporary housing for those whose properties were sadly lost. There are also extensive ‘portakabin’ villages housing the construction crews that are rebuilding the affected parts of the community.

Whilst in Jasper we went on an evening wildlife bus tour, guided by local conservationists. These good folks were surprisingly up-beat about the damage done, explaining that such events are natural and that nature itself is capable of recovering surprisingly rapidly.

Some evidence of this positive news may be discerned in these images:

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Following the three day sojourn in Banff concerning which I posted last time out, our small band of intrepid travellers mounted a different bus for the transfer to Jasper – this latter being the location of our rendezvous with the train that would transport us through the Rockies.

This bus was another of The Girl’s excellent finds. Rather than sprint the relatively short journey from Banff to Jasper this excursion would take a leisurely whole day to complete the trip, enabling us to see an additional range of unmissable sights en route.

One of the promised – and perhaps the most dramatic of these sights – featured a visit to the Icefields.

I have walked on a glacier before – in Alaska – but there we were whisked onto the ice in helicopters. Here we were actually driven up onto the ice in the most extraordinary all-terrain vehicles. The pictures must be seen:

Photo by Andy Dawson ReidPhoto by Andy Dawson ReidPhoto by Andy Dawson Reid
This extraordinary glass bottomed structure – the Jasper Skywalk – enables one to walk on air high above the deeply carved canyon:

Photo by Andy Dawson ReidPhoto by Andy Dawson ReidAdditional stops before a late afternoon arrival in Jasper were Peyto Lake (which everyone agrees is shaped like a wolf’s head!) and the spectacular Athabasca Falls:

Photo by Andy Dawson ReidPhoto by Andy Dawson ReidPhoto by Andy Dawson ReidPhoto by Andy Dawson ReidPhoto by Andy Dawson Reid

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On the second day of our hop on/hop off exploration of Banff National Park we visited the Lake Louise Gondola and Moraine Lake. The ride up the gondola is spectacular and brings home the sheer scale of the Rocky mountains. In the first image below you can just make out – in the centre of the photograph – Lake Louise and the Chateau.

Photo by Andy Dawson ReidPhoto by Andy Dawson ReidMoraine Lake is quite possibly the most electric of the blue lakes – though it has to be said that it does have a fair bit of competition within the same national park.

Photo by Andy Dawson ReidPhoto by Andy Dawson ReidThere are, of course, many things to see aside from the many lakes and mountains.

Photo by Andy Dawson Reid Photo by Andy Dawson ReidHop on Banff‘ was a great find on The Girl’s part and is widely praised in the various online guides. This photo is of one of their excellent teams – Lewis – the (English!) guide – and Bobbi the driver. Great fun  – great value and most flexible in the way that one can essentially construct one’s own itinerary.

 Photo by Andy Dawson ReidKudos!

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Canada is a huge country which contains, arguably, more than its fair share of natural beauty. The Girl and I frequently  find ourselves overwhelmed by its ravishing gorgeousness – and that is just here on Vancouver Island. Should one explore further afield within in the province –  or, indeed, venture into the great expanse of the nation beyond – one finds one’s breath taken away on a regular basis.

There are some parts of the country, however, that go beyond any glories that I have thus far experienced. Lake Louise – in the Banff National Park – is one such area of staggeringly dramatic beauty! So epic is it that I should at once stop trying to capture its perfection in words – and just let the gentle reader goggle at the images.

Without further ado…

Photo by Andy Dawson ReidPhoto by Andy Dawson ReidPhoto by Andy Dawson ReidPhoto by Andy Dawson ReidPhoto by Andy Dawson ReidPhoto by Andy Dawson ReidPhoto by Andy Dawson ReidPhoto by Andy Dawson ReidThe colour of the waters of the lake seem almost unreal. All of the glacier-fed lakes in the area have similar distinctive hues – a result of the particles trapped in the ice which remains in suspension once the ice has melted.

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There is much to see in the Banff and Jasper National Parks. Aside from Banff itself one would probably wish to devote some time at least to the following: Johnston Canyon, the Lake Louise Gondola, Lake Louise itself, Moraine Lake, the Icefields Parkway, the Athabasca Falls and Jasper.

On our recent trip to the Rockies The Girl and I had three days in Banff and one in Jasper and we aimed to cover as much of this as was feasible. Naturally The Girl came up with the smart solution. ‘Hop On Banff‘ operate a clever schedule with a couple of old yellow school buses which enables one to choose which sights one wishes to see and in which sequence. As you might expect – given The Girl’s involvement – this all went very well.

This first batch of images takes as its subject the Johnston Canyon.

Photo by Andy Dawson ReidPhoto by Andy Dawson ReidPhoto by Andy Dawson ReidPhoto by Andy Dawson ReidPhoto by Andy Dawson ReidI was most taken with the elevated walkways which extend more than a kilometre and a half up to the lower falls. As can be seen from the photos the engineering feat that enables one to walk through the heart of the canyon – above the raging torrent – is most impressive. Construction must have been a spectacularly difficult task, but now results in an easy stroll practically through the heart of the rapids.

Photo by Andy Dawson ReidPhoto by Andy Dawson ReidBeing out in the heart of nature we were – naturally – seeking wildlife. Armed with bear-spray and a little learning (dangerous!) we were on the lookout for eagles, ravens, moose and bears!

Not a one! Plenty of these cheeky little chaps, though.

Photo by Andy Dawson ReidNo – not a chipmunk (though quite similar in appearance). This chap is a ground squirrel – and there are gazillions of them in the mountains.

Bold as brass, too!

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As trailed in my last post The Girl and I recently returned from our splendid adventure in the Rocky Mountains, the which also featured (as part of the full supporting program) exploration of some much loved parts of Vancouver Island. As promised in that post am now in a position to offer the gentle reader, over these next few weeks, a selection of images from that trip.

Having flown to Calgary and transferred by bus, we kicked off our tour in Banff – whence came these initial images:

Photo by Andy Dawson ReidPhoto by Andy Dawson ReidPhoto by Andy Dawson ReidPhoto by Andy Dawson ReidPhoto by Andy Dawson ReidAs expected, Banff was dramatic and striking. What I had not anticipated was that it would also be as crowded as it was.The fact that the G7 summit was to take place in the environs the week after our visit went some way to explaining the crowds – as did the huge media conference in progress at the iconic Banff Springs Hotel.

Photo by Andy Dawson ReidThe town’s restaurants and bars thronged each night with media executives frantically hawking their wares to each other. Leaving such matters to the gentle reader’s imagination I will head rapidly for the tranquility of the surrounding national parks.

Before I move on, however, a quick shout out to the exquisite Beaujolais Boutique B&B at Thea’s House.

Photo by Andy Dawson ReidThis was one of The Girl’s finds – naturally – and she will certainly be doing a full review of it later which I may well feature on this forum. We cannot praise them enough for the lengths to which they went to ensure that our trip started well.

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