Flotsam and Jetsam

“Shipshape and Bristol Fashion : in good order; efficiently arranged”

Collins English Dictionary

For those interested in the origin of this splendidly quaint phrase Wikipedia is helpful as ever:

“The saying in today’s form has been recorded as early as 1840 (“shipshape” alone being about 200 years older). The term developed most likely in view of the port of Bristol (in the UK) which had (before the Floating Harbour was constructed) a very high tidal range of 13 metres (43 ft), the second highest in the world. Ships moored in this area would be aground at low tide and, because of their keels, would fall to one side. If everything was not stowed away tidily or tied down, the results were chaotic and cargo could be spoiled.”

The phrase is most commonly used now to indicate that everything has been put well in order and I am, given the time of year, currently ensuring that such is the case with regard to the good ship Dignity before she heads for her summer moorage. As part of this preparatory effort I check that her batteries are charged, that all systems are working as they should be and that both main engine and kicker are in good shape. This last involves running them up and checking for any problems or issues.

Those familiar with marine engines and such-like may prefer to skip ahead, but for any ingenues and those otherwise interested here is a very brief guide to how such things work.

The marine engine in a planing powerboat (as opposed to a displacement vessel) of this size (20ft) could take a variety of forms, but is most usually a petrol (gas) engine either in the form of an outboard or an inboard/outboard (sterndrive). The latter features a fixed power unit within the boat and a steerable transmission ‘leg’ which transfers the drive through the hull to the prop. Neither of these types requires a separate rudder, since steering is effected by turning the whole drive unit.

Dignity has a sterndrive – a Volvo Penta Aquamatic with a 280 outboard drive. This lump is based on a big V8 Chrysler block which has found its way into many marine engines over an extended period. Though the basic internals of a marine petrol engine are similar to those of a car or truck engine, everything else is different. That starts with the cooling system.

In a car the coolant that circulates through the engine block to carry away the heat generated therein passes through a heat exchanger in the form of the radiator. This relies on air flow to take the heat out of the coolant. For a marine engine – often buried in the bowels of a boat – there is no equivalent air flow. There is – however – a  lot of cold water just outside the hull.

The simplest thing would surely be to pump water into the boat, pass it through the engine block and discharge it again overboard. This is not feasible, however, since the corrosion caused by water – and in particular salt water – would kill the engine block in short order. The sea or lake water is instead passed through another form of heat exchanger which is in turn part of a sealed coolant system similar to that used in a car engine. To make everything more self-contained the water is pumped in through vents in the outboard drive and returned to the sea (or lake) by similar means.

This complex system involves all manner of flexible pipes and tubes which must be maintained in good working order – for if it is not and one of the hoses fails the result will most likely be the ingress of a whole bunch of water into the boat itself. This sort of thing clearly couldn’t happen to a car on the M25, but even if it could it would not cause the vehicle to sink!

I trust that all is clear thus far?

Now – running the engine whilst the boat is on land naturally requires that a source of water be provided if it is not to overheat. In the image above you can see a hose feeding water through a device that looks like a pair of ear-muffs into the vents near the bottom of the sterndrive (which is in its raised position) and the spent water being ejected from higher up the leg. This mechanism also comes in very useful when taking the boat out of the salt-chuck, because it is essential to flush out as much salt water as possible before storing the boat – for the same corrosive reasons mentioned above.

OK – I think that is about enough boatery for the time being – though as my head is now firmly in nautical mode I can’t promise that it will be the last word on the matter.

It is that time of year when the good ship Dignity is being prepared for her summer sojourn in one of the local marinas, so that we may enjoy as much as possible the delights of being on the water during the dog days… though it has to be said that the weather has not yet quite made the grade (at least as far as those of us who are decidedly fair-weather sailors are concerned).

Now, Dignity is no spring chicken – having been built in 1978 – and thus inevitably usually requires a certain amount of TLC at the start of the season. Her trailer is of an indeterminate age, but has itself clearly been around the block more than once! I have tried very hard over the last couple of years not to look too closely at it; and in particular at the brakes. I had a sneaking suspicion – the which I did not want confirmed – that they were in a condition that rendered them fit only for show (and only just for that!).

The trailer does considerably less miles than does the boat, being limited to a trundle down to the nearby boat launch and back a couple of times a year. I take things very gently and – to be frank – the Lexus has more than enough brake-age for both vehicle and tow-load.

The trailer is however (or was!) fitted with surge brakes. These comprise a hydraulic master cylinder built into the coupling which feeds brake cylinders on two of the the wheel hubs. When the towing vehicle slows the forward momentum of the boat and trailer effectively apply the trailer brakes through this mechanism. One of the big drawbacks of surge brakes, of course, is that the same physics applies when one tries to reverse the trailer, which is less than helpful.

Anyway, I finally figured that it was time to bite the bullet and to make a closer inspection of the trailer brakes. A perfunctory examination revealed that they were indeed non-functional. The hydraulic lines had completely corroded and any remaining fluid therein had seeped away. The brake drums and hubs were also corroded to the point that I doubted the existing brakes could easily be made to function again.

Two possibilities came to mind. I could just strip the brakes out and manage without them. A furtive peak on the InterWebNet (though half-closed eyes and with fingers firmly crossed) sadly confirmed my worst fears. For a boat and trailer of Dignity’s weight brakes are a legal requirement… in BC at any rate. Hmmm!

The next best option – if Dignity was ever to be moved again – was to replace the dead hubs and brakes with shiny new electric brakes. The Lexus has a big advantage in this regard in that its tow-pack already has a controller built in to it and it is simply a case of picking up the necessary pin on the seven-way connector. The legislation – with the sort of overkill that probably does actually have its origins in common-sense – also requires that a breakaway mechanism be fitted. Frankly – if boat and trailer not only break free of the coupling but also destroy the required robust safety chains as well I doubt if a couple of drum brakes are going to stop it causing serious havoc – but the law is the law! A battery based mechanism with a safety strap and switch were duly also acquired.

The illustration above shows the new hubs, bearing, electric brakes and breakaway kit. I’m not saying that installation was straightforward; indeed a fair bit of cussing was involved – not to mention one seriously bruised finger on an occasion on which I was spectacularly careless with a club hammer – but all has been fitted and appears to be functioning.

Fingers crossed (including the damaged one) – all systems go!